... a conference in New
Orleans.
On an airplane, headed
from northern England, via Amsterdam and Atlanta, to the real heart of the very South.
Unfortunately, I keep
being surprised at the sloppy, smelly American passengers in my last couple of air trips to the States – and they always seem to be so loud, too; and they take up
so much room – pushing bags aside for overstuffed suitcases that obviously
should have been checked, on flights where the service is slovenly, offhand and
obviously depressed.
Of course, I know that I am too loud, for the northern English
city where I live, and often for the norm in various cities across Europe; D.,
for instance, although we are friends and colleagues, often expresses barely
covert (really, virtually passive-aggressive) irritation that I don't shut up
more, or at least tone it down a bit. But perhaps I'm not used to hearing American
volume en masse any more.
On the plane, they show a
couple of films of exaggeratedly heterosexual American life – lots of families
and children and relationships, and grandmothers and sons and wives, and such.
Common denominator, I suppose.
I am, as it happens,
reading Erikson's book on child development in preparation for my Zürich exams
next summer... And some combination of all this makes me wonder: if many human lives,
and many problems, are characterized by the dense knotting of several levels of
positive and negative meaning between people, distributed across complex events
and life stages – then can we say that I have unfortunately had a later life
characterized somewhat differently – by unraveling, by a loss of meaning?
People dying; moving too
far away from knots of lovers, friends, family... there is a sense of
dissipation: by which I don't mean drinking and such, but simply the process,
as a gas dissipates into thin air. As though the sorrows and confusions of my
life have ended up lying a bit too far from their original objects, drifting tenuously
through empty spaces – or perhaps it is like unraveling strands of rope. It
becomes possible to see what happened in the past, but the results are a bit
abstract – this is all like looking back over a story, and polishing details,
when you already know the ending... or,
perhaps, the lack thereof.
***
But there are a lot of rapidly
shifting feelings and moods during this trip of nearly a week – so many
changes, places, people: at first I was a bit shell-shocked, partly by that
long plane trip. (How did I manage to go from northern England to New Orleans
via three planes – eighteen hours total in one direction, then twenty-two in the
other? It honestly seemed worse than those old trips to Hong Kong, which were
at times twenty-seven hours long... but back then the airline was much pleasanter, the
attendants happier and more helpful, and there was more space.) On the first
day or two there was a lot of wondering just what I was doing at this
conference – nobody seemed to remember me, nobody seemed to want to talk. Fortunately,
this changed a great deal during the conference, and I was no longer another
forgotten foreigner by the end.
And it is the kind of city where you can walk around and look at houses, and think: Ah, I wish that I could live here... in the French Quarter, the small buildings have an aliveness that you could imagine as part of a beloved home. In every street, you change your mind: no, I would rather live there...
***
In any case, New Orleans is enormous
fun – in a frankly rather rough, often visibly poor kind of way. But they truly
do know how to enjoy their lives: the Discworld book Witches Abroad is a blithe parody of a trip that Pratchett must
have taken to New Orleans... including the wonderful food that is made out of
anything (scrapings from the bottom of the bay, or rivers), but which has a real
sensual magic to it. A wonderful scene in a market, where Nanny Ogg meets one
of the local witches – who has a big pot of gumbo sitting outside her tent, a
plate next to it for coins, and that plate is overflowing: Nanny Ogg tries the
gumbo, and says: so, they pay you whatever they think it’s worth? The witch
says yes, they do... and Nanny Ogg says, tentatively, and you don’t get loaded
down with a lot of diamonds, and gold, and such?...
Long lunches and dinners, astoundingly
rich food – and, most unexpectedly, the people are all so sweet and charming: as
you would expect, the many tourists are mildly obnoxious (it is like Amsterdam
or San Francisco, where tourists expect to have raunchy fun they wouldn’t ever
have at home, and therefore behave accordingly – unfortunately, as when we had
to convince German tourists in San Francisco not to piss on the street
corners); but everyone I meet who actually lives in New Orleans seems truly
civilized, charming, and friendly. And they flirt, also charmingly, which is always
good for an aging ego. (The most unexpected case of this was the hotel clerk in
his late twenties who said, So, young man, how can I help you?... I did snort
in amusement.)
Best meals? There were a
number of them, over six days – a rough-edged, loud diner full of tourists that
Dan chose, because he had heard that the ‘blackened oysters’ were not to be
missed. And he was right: a wonderful dinner of oysters roasted with spices on
top – we devoured them, overseen benevolently by the bleached-blonde biker-chick
waitress (she clearly missed getting to have a cigarette hanging off her lip),
and then headed out into a Halloween night. Bourbon Street was busy and crazy,
in a hectic and overcrowded way – there were a number of truly amazing costumes,
with astounding craftsmanship; but it was even better at the eastern end of the
French Quarter, in the trendy/scruffy/young/gay neighborhood, where Dan took a
lot of pictures. We told people how good their costumes were, too – a blonde
woman who had drunk so much that she was slurring her speech, an elegantly
dressed Colombian man with painted-on scars and bruises (I forget what he was
supposed to be, but I think Dan recognized the reference).
A number of times I went
to the wittily modern/traditional mix in the café Green Goddess – possibly too often,
given how many other restaurants were available – five or six meals there? Well,
it was nearby, and it was (though you are getting sick of strong comparatives)
really, really good. By the second time, the waitresses knew me, both the
gentle dark-haired studious one and the brasher, rougher blonde one (a
youthful, possibly lesbian, version of that biker chick). I went there with Mitchell,
Susan, Rob – the food was good enough to make Rob happy (always a tricky
negotiation, so it’s lucky that went well) and it was outdoors, which on most
days was wonderful. Because it is in a street that has no cars, the tables
merely face another set of charming houses and restaurants, painted in pastels
and with flower baskets here and there – a good place to spend some time; I
think Susan and I sat around for six or seven hours one night, joined for part
of the time by others.
***
Bookstores ranged from excellent
to scruffy, but they all exhibited a real affection and passion for books, used
and exotic and bizarre. I went back to one of them several times, a large, dark
space filled with shelves; the pleasantly talkative proprietor looked through
my list of books-to-find-someday, and managed to pick five or six off scattered
shelves. It was a pleasure when he complimented me on the list, which was
evidently fairly esoteric and interesting – there were bursts of tourists
asking for more standard current hits, and he dealt with them quickly and
casually. I did find Beerbohm (although I still can’t ever find an affordable
copy of that small multi-volume set of the collected essays – perhaps I never will), an older
edition of Katherine Mansfield’s diaries (I was a bit uncertain about this one, as there is
now a completely revised edition – but on the other hand, I’ll
probably never get a chance to compare versions next to each other,
so I bought it); and a book on Anne Rice, which seemed a particularly guilty
pleasure in what used to be her city (I didn’t quite feel I could read it until
I came home, as I would look like – yes, horrors – a tourist).
There was also a gay used
bookstore in the scruffy-trendy neighborhood – but the exceptionally casual (apparently demi-stoned) proprietor
left the place closed with all the lights on, then later had problems with the
electricity going off, then finally let me look through a mostly dark
bookstore. My sense was: a lot of uninteresting junk, plus some unexpected
knockoffs… but it was too dark to know much by the end of that visit.
Incidentally, you could tell from the guidebooks – even the conservative ones: Frommer's was surprisingly dramatic – that the writers from New Orleans were still deeply angry, deeply grieved, over Hurricane Katrina. There is a lot of extraordinary writing that reflects such a lot of sorrow and pride – that they survived, that they weren't helped more, that they are fighting their way back up, inch by inch... the passion behind this is remarkable.
Dinner with James (one of Mitchell's students, therefore instant 'family') on the
last night, back in the trendy neighborhood: excellent food, a number of
different dishes – a bar/restaurant with a playful interface between those
carnally intense seafood dishes that are always so good here, and subtle
postmodern variations that didn’t ruin them. Most surprising was the band – a
pianist, trumpeter, and an oval-faced young singer, doing 30s jazz; they were
absolutely excellent (jazz as casually played on the street in New Orleans is
far more remarkable than the most skillful stage performances elsewhere – it is the expert local language). The singer really caught my ear: you know how those old
recordings have particular overtones, a quality I had always ascribed to the
technology – missing spectra, or amplified ones. She was recreating that with
her own voice – which raised the interesting question: when it originally appeared, was that quality a
matter of training, or of technology? Probably an unanswerable question now – if the recording is all that is left, how can you know what
the sound was before it was recorded? A great musical/culinary experience, at
any rate (and a fairly powerful existential/Jungian discussion with James that
came into sharper focus after we walked the length of the French Quarter to get
back and sit in the big, brightly-lit hotel lobby, as people watched football, interspersed with
bulletins on the election).
The last morning, I had
time to go to an old-fashioned Southern-style café with tables outdoors under
the trees, and a huge buffet designed for tourists. The waiter was a sort of
elderly black character actor, enjoying his professional role and playing with
it – again we became friends during the brunch, and he started to make
recommendations and steer my choices. At the next table was a family from
Atlanta, with a big, loud father who kept talking about Romney and the election
– and was pushing the waiters around in a way that was just a hair away from
outright racism. My waiter started to get a distinctly and visibly sour
expression: we exchanged looks of sympathy, but when I commiserated he said: I
am a professional...
I had to leave a bit too
quickly because it was getting to be time to go to the airport; but it was
still a striking experience.
***
My paper was surprisingly
successful – I was nervous during it: parts seemed to me too dry, too lifeless;
and I realized during the course of it that, because there were so many things
to explain about each slide, my examples and text were both far too long. But I
managed to skip over two pages smoothly, without anyone noticing; and I cut
both of my later examples short – rather unfortunate that the audio didn’t fade
out evenly, but oh well, no one seemed to be too upset.
Most excitingly: it seemed
as though that people thought it was really beautiful, which is what was
intended. I keep feeling as though much of my writing in the last decade has
perhaps become academically rather sketchy, casual – but it does tell stories,
and reach points that seem to me more important than merely technical detail.
And in this case it was successful: working through Derek Jarman’s last films,
even with several pages and examples missing, in order to come to some more
sympathetic understanding of his point of view in the face of death, actually came
across...
I may not be the most useful
of musicologists: but at least I seem to be talking about things that people
find actually interesting.
***
And there was time spent with
Mitchell, after too many years (he is always taller than I remember him, as we usually only talk on the phone these days); and
with Fred – who is now happy with a sweet-tempered boyfriend. And a ridiculously brief encounter with Andrew, absolutely in passing – I think we only exchanged quips with no greetings. And many
other friends and acquaintances… and no, I didn’t do a perfect job of
remembering people's names, but I can’t do that even at home, so you can’t expect much at
a large conference.
And the trip home, as bad
as the flight out – and the background anxiety over the election – I didn’t
hear that the Crazy Psycho Brutal Boss had lost until I got home, geographically far
from the loony politics of modern America; and then that was a pleasant relief.
Late evening after many hours, a frigid apartment because the heating had been off – but it
was pleasant to lay on the couch, turn on all the heat I could find, and drag
together some food from my own kitchen.
I do enjoy the best parts
of travel, but as I age I have become quite a homebody…
***
Ah, but the food – and the
people and the streets and the houses – of sensual, relaxed, slightly crazy New
Orleans.