Air France (I)
I hate Air France. I mean really: they have screwed up every flight, everywhere; and of course they are associated with the dreadful De Gaulle airport, which I think is actually worse than Heathrow (if such a thing is possible). And they really don’t care…
[6/25/07]
•••
Getting it wrong
Getting it wrong in Mexico City, Norteamericano style… the taxi from the airport, an ejecutivo model I didn’t want for twice the price I should have paid; tired and confused right off a flight, I am an easy mark, unable to distinguish pesos from dollars from pounds. And ultimately: getting stuck in this luxury hotel in this empty business neighborhood. What a clueless approach to the city – how could I have come so unprepared, how could I be such a turista?
Worse, in unpacking, I can see that I have dressed entirely horribly – i.e., I have dressed the way I dress in Newcastle: fatly, ungainlily, dowdily. (Why did I fling that pair of pirates away when I finally packed? They would have been ideal; and nobody would have dared accuse me of wearing clamdiggers.)
Ah well. In this entirely artificial hotel in an entirely artificial neighborhood (note the building in the picture, called the 'Washing Machine' – you will recognize it as such), the answer is actually clear: I have my paper to revise, I have several intelligent and exceptionally thoughtful books to read – I can just hole up here, in this room. Madness, you say – coming all this way to sit in a hotel room… but perhaps that is the nature of luxury hotels: you don’t really get to touch the city, the people, around you. It’s not even an option.
[6/25/07]
•••
Room Service
On the second night, in my room: not interested in going out, needing to work on my presentation and V.’s eulogy (which needs to be revised for a different audience), I order room service. Not as financially irresponsible as you might think – green tea, soup, and a quasi-sushi (didn’t want anything heavier) for about £10.
The sort-of-sushi – actually a kind of miniature chirashizushi, but with smoked salmon; the soy sauce thickened and drizzled around it – seems like the kind of thing that someone who had never seen sushi, but had had it described to them, might make. Pleasant enough, but an odd mistranslation – cuisine from a globalized culture that doesn’t quite exist, yet.
Ah, but the soup: that was a wholly different, and a wonderful, matter. A beef consommé, and a good one – but the amazing transformation when you dumped in what the menu simply called “traditional local garnishes”, i.e. half a lime, chopped cilantro, chopped green pepper, chopped onion. Wowee. The lime juice and cilantro are electric, the pepper sharp as tacks – the whole is still basically beef bouillon, but now utterly changed, exciting – and so easily too. Must remember to try this at home.
After the green pepper, of course, I need to turn up the room’s air conditioning. So that’s what that’s for….
[6/26/07]
•••
Promises
The whole problem of this trip is the big, broken promises it represents: promises from months ago, not to anybody else, but to myself – my promise that I would have quiet, peace, reserve, time to focus on writing this year; that I wouldn’t fritter my time on travel and conferences and other people's demands.
Promises hugely broken after V.’s death: and possibly foolishly broken – it may be important to publish writings associated with V., but presenting a Powerpoint for her is probably not so important. At this conference I am reminded of the disparity between the effort required to go somewhere and talk about one’s work, and the resultant impact – it’s crazy, really. If you’re not invited, and won’t have adoring throngs coming to see you (which has actually happened to me, though not lately), you really shouldn’t go: it’s too draining, it takes more out than you should give. It’s bad economy, in all the things that matter more than money.
I think the anxiety, the irritability, the underlying anger that keep showing up during this trip comes from that simple, terrible thing: that I made promises to myself, and I broke them. There’s no answer to it: you can apologize to yourself, you can say it won’t happen again, you can beg for forgiveness, you can say that circumstances changed – but the effect of those broken promises is just too vast: it makes everything else, whatever it may be, taste like ash.
•••
Contact and Exposure
The past couple of months have included increasing numbers of contacts with important people from my past: a long phone conversation with Mitchell, along with a promise of more conversations this summer; wishing Trisha a happy birthday, and the possibility of seeing her in a month; another birthday call to David, which led to him calling me after midnight one night, followed by a rambunctious, cheerful conversation; and seeing my beloved Laura in Edinburgh, more than ten years after I last saw her. The kind of people you immediately start with again, as though the intervening years didn’t even happen, except as fodder for catching up; the kind of people who make the day easy, who only raise a deep regret afterward, that they aren’t around all the time to talk to.
Then, in this explosion of travel, some people who have not been quite as far away, but who matter a great deal to me: Anahid, Freya, Fred at the Mexico conference, among others; my sisters, brother, mom, niece in Washington; Jenny, Sophie and a crowd of colleagues in York…. really a dazzling array of wonderful people. But I’ve always said that my friends, and I include my family in that at this point in my life, were the area where I was really amazingly lucky – the area where, in fact, I have nothing to complain about. Except that, of course, they’re all – again – so far away; I’ve moved too far from too many people who are good at making life easy, making the day pass happily.
But the phone calls are comforting, and important, especially after the deaths of Vanessa and of David O.-S.; although I realized, as though in passing, what was exceptionally tricky about those deaths – both Vanessa and David were sicker than I was, were, in fact, closer to death. If, in some undefined but somehow self-evident Our Gang, we’re all familiar with and unafraid of illness and dying, they were definitely the ones closest to the ultimate end – and now that they’re gone, I can’t help thinking: ah, I’m the one who’s closest now.
Not a threatened feeling: being a member of that club, a citizen of Death’s realm, is not a problem; but it makes me feel more exposed – as though there is nobody to share war stories with, nobody to soften the blows, by sharing them….
•••
Air France II
Did I tell you that I hate Air France? Well, they’re even worse on the return flights. What a huge mess – the Russian blonde girl behind me, the Saudi guy in front of me: we have all made friends, talking about how utterly awful this is, waiting in this endless line for people to figure out where to put us, since all of our connecting flights have been missed. Indeed, I have never caught a connecting flight through Paris – they are always missed: how could they possibly handle things this way, doesn’t the company itself collapse? And I dearly wish it would.
Although Fred told me in Mexico City: if you decide to cross airlines off your list because of their horrid incompetence, you will end up with none left. Probably, sadly, true – and it reminds me of airlines I’ve really come to despise: United of course (I wanted billboards with a new slogan: “United Airlines – We Apologize For the Inconvenience”), British Air (which at least can only screw up on short trips, for the most part); and of course Air France. (I thought Continental was simply beneath consideration; but Jenny disagrees, as she says they are actually excellent with disabled passengers – which is good to know, I guess.)
My great story, with V., about Air France: that, a couple of years ago, she and I are traveling to a conference in Montréal (and how would you get to Québec except via Air France?). On the way home, we land at De Gaulle, and of course they screw up, and we miss our connecting flights. But the next flight is twelve hours away; and we are summarily dumped by airline employees who aren’t interested in what we’ll do for the intervening time; and, unexpectedly and importantly, the usually hyper-organized V. has not brought extra dosages of the medications that keep her digestion from making her utterly miserable. She didn’t plan on an additional twelve hours, and she is starting to get very unhappy indeed.
You should have seen me: aggressive, obnoxious, valiant. I began to pose as V.’s husband and demanded, in French, of every person in sight, that my wife, who is ill, as you can see, needs a wheelchair, a quiet place to sit and wait, a bottle of water. It was difficult to get any attention at first, but we were ultimately successful – and got vouchers for rather dismal but much-needed sandwiches from the pathetic shops in the terminal. (Since the French don’t really do sandwiches, or fast food, they are especially poor – they’re unable to distinguish quality anywhere below the level of gourmet food, I suppose.)
The story is simple, but V. told it herself, to everyone, when we got back: it was a bond between us, and something that made me unexpectedly proud. It’s a pride that is probably familiar to most husbands, most fathers: the pride that you have taken care of someone, that you have fought back for someone who needs help. The wonderful emotional elision of one’s own anger at a stupid situation: it is all transformed, because the anger has shifted to be applied for the sake of someone else – and you become, not a complainer, but a hero….
[7/5/07]
•••
Fragments
Things I should have written about, had I had the time to think straight:
our blithe arrogance about other currencies – ha, we said, you may have dollars, you may have pesos (sneer and twirl mustache), but we have pounds.
the great days out in Mexico City, with Freya and Fred; the vast and chaotic market where I bought cheap and weird gifts for everybody, the chicken mole, sitting in the chic all-kinds-of-gay-and-gay-friendly café with the manager who loved us as customers, and Carlos taking us to Mexico City’s original gay bar. The torrential evening rains, every summer evening, that ruined my watch: as though I had jumped into a swimming pool.
the eerie disjunction of people seen at Dulles Airport: no, I don't mean the denizens of many nations, I mean the locals – because this is the interface between Northern Virginia, a wealthy suburb of Washington, part of a network of the most educated people in the country (although that education is mostly political, practical, engineering and law being more important than the kind of useless arts I do), and the 'real' Virginia, which has people who look impossibly rural, even genetically primitive. I've noticed this before, but the weirdness of the yokel in a passing truck, in relation to my reserved, articulate sister and her cool gray car, is startling.
the first morning and evening in Virginia, my mother fragile but happy, my younger sister energetic and constantly laughing, my brother rather grandly cheerful, and my eldest sister, who has been through a lot lately, her face relaxing into a smile: and their blithe spouses – the sheer, and loving, enjoyment of this evening, the rediscovery of how much fun we can have together.
the picnics, with all the family but especially with my mom, and how difficult and changed she is – but at the same time not different at all: though she cannot remember simple words, is lost and old and fragile, her anxieties follow the exact patterns of her life; in a way, she hasn’t changed a bit.
the weird nature, both completely familiar and unbelievably alien, of the Virginia suburbs: the clothes, the humid summer air, the vast houses, the shopping malls, the Fourth of July fireworks – and above all the pleasure of sitting out on my sister’s porch with her family, a pleasure which seems to come from a hundred years ago, as though it’s a memory of a part of my life so distant that it feels like the czarist childhoods in Nabokov novels.
the strange 2001: A Space Odyssey décor of the terminal at De Gaulle, now worn, so dull and hermetically sealed from the real Paris – the reduction of possibilities to so few, and so grayish-white; the nightmare of ill-kempt modernism, of Mies gone so very wrong.
the retroactive discovery after I get home, pleasing, annoying, and rather telling: that after a week of looking for Mexican chocolate all over the capitol – in discs, for melting into milk – I actually bought it on the way out, in the sweets shop at the Mexican airport, without recognizing it. A stubby cylinder, that I assumed was a chunk of cooking chocolate – not apparently what I wanted but absurdly cheap, and better than nothing: if I’d looked more closely I would have seen it was actually wrapped discs piled on top of each other – and they are indeed amazing as hot chocolate, raw and strong and full of cinnamon; but I have only four left. If I had slowed down enough to pay attention and realize this was what I’d been seeking, begging for, all along, I would have bought ten cylinders – and had it all the coming winter….
[6/25-7/5/07]